Despite the advent of hyper- and supermarkets, the French are very loyal to their open air food markets. For visitors traveling to France, nothing beats the French farmers’ markets for history and authenticity. These venues were the only source for food and household goods for centuries. If you get an urge during your French holiday to brush up against the locals, you will find no better place to do so than walking through one of Paris’ busy and lively open air markets.
The Rue Cler
Situated in the posh 7th arrondissement on the western end of the city near the Eiffel Tower, the Rue Cler street market is open every day of the week and offers a delightful experience for the hungry tourist. Starting at the south end of the pedestrian-only, cobblestone-paved street, you will want to pull out your camera to photograph the glossy, colorful fruit and fragrant cheese stalls which line both sides of this part of the street. As you walk further up, you will see wine shops, honey vendors, a chocolate store (although it’s Belgian, not French) and some non-food shops, such as a boutique which sells pretty French-produced linen tea towels in an array of patterns, perfect for taking back home.
While the Rue Cler does cater a bit to the tourist trade (there are many small hotels along this street, and all of the café menus are printed in English), it is above all a purveyor to the local neighborhood. Newsagents, a post office and a hardware store intermingle with the souvenir shops; all signs that this is a market that draws not only tourists, but meets the daily needs of the Parisians as well.
On the other side of the city not far from the Place de la Bastille is the marché alligre. Situated in a working class neighborhood, the prices are half what Rue Cler charges and the atmosphere more boisterous. You will feel like you are in the middle of an auction as you stroll through this market with the vendors shouting their prices and beckoning you to come and taste the best melon or cherries. It is noisy and fun, and the quality of the goods is top-notch. At one end of the marché alligre is a flea market which is always an interesting browse. From stacks of jeans to boxes of old type-setting gear, the stands are a hodge podge of goods. A little further along you will find loads of fresh-cut flowers, and behind that an indoor market where the meat and poultry is sold.
So on your next holiday in France, be sure to wander through an open air market. Even if you don’t plan on preparing an elaborate meal, you’ll enjoy the stunning symmetrical displays of this country’s bounty. You can always pick up a bottle of wine, a loaf of bread and some cheese for an impromptu picnic in one of the city’s many parks.